11mm X 1.5 170MM Long 02-07 Toyota Camry/Rav4/Scion 2AZFE Loose Head Bolt Repair
11mm X 1.5 170MM Long 02-07 Toyota Camry/Rav4/Scion 2AZFE Loose Head Bolt Repair
(Oversize length and diameter)
180mm overall length
(171mm length from tip to bolt head flange with the washer cut off.)
.428" diameter at the threads
(Not factory recommended) 1AZFE / 2AZFE 4cyl Camry/Scion/Highlander Head Repair
2001-2007 Toyota Highlander
2002-2009 Toyota Camry
2004-2007 Toyota RAV4
2009-2010 Toyota Corolla XRS
2009-2011 Toyota Matrix S
2005-2010 Scion tC
2008-2015 Scion xB
I can't guarantee your results, as your block, gasket and head may be too badly affected.
(The recommended fix is new thread TimeSerts installed, a new gasket and shave (machine) the head flat)
But
if you are facing an unmanageable repair or replacement cost to a beginning head gasket leak, with seepage out the back of your engine, steaming off your exhaust into the engine compartment, mystery coolant loss, sloshing or gurgling sounds in your heater core, this may be worth a try. You can use a screwdriver to pry and wiggle the tops of your rear head bolts to see if they are loose. (center ones usually). If you are experiencing combustion smell or combustion pressure inside the radiator, you may need more extensive head or head gasket repairs. (The factory head gasket is pretty tough and does not necessarily get ruined in every case of these stripped bolt threads.)
If you check your head bolt hole depths carefully with a long wire, (compare it to your factory bolt) you might find you have about 1/2" of good threads down below your stripped out area. This longer (and fatter) bolt makes use of those good threads. So far in my experiences I find that these bolts are wider at the threads by 2 to 8 thousands of an inch than the factory 2AZ FE head bolts, (and also wider than most aftermarket 11mm designated bolts) therefore more surface contact, which grips much better for this application, allowing less slip under heat expansion/contraction.
(It is my opinion that at least some of the Toyota factory bolts were made too narrow.)
These replacements are 10.9 high grade steel head bolts.
In my own repairs, I go only to 55 ft lbs, and use these bolts with no machine work at all, head in place, holes just cleaned thoroughly with acetone and a suction tube and chopstick swab. I leave the old damaged threads in place for pinch/anchor power. I remove the factory washer and cut the washer off this bolt to go as deep as possible, going at least 9mm deeper than factory. I release the catch on the timing chain tensioner to move the cam out of the way a bit just enough to access the head bolts. This is done leaving the timing cover in place - if you have a good light source a 24 inch steel rod and a 15" long probe made from a slightly bent steel rod or rebar with a small pointed end. You can study a YouTube video to see the ratchet latch on the chain tensioner. The tensioner spring loaded ratchet latch is positioned facing the timing cover with access down between the cam gears. (Press the ratchet latch ridge back toward the firewall). Another 24" steel rod with a pointed bent tip snags between a chain link and leverages against the chain and chain slide keeping it in place back against the tensioner so it keeps everything from losing timing position as the ratchet latch releases the chain tension. It is held in place with vice grips at the top connected to a long bungie cord to the front bumper. There is enough slack in the upper part of the chain then to gently angle the cam forward (holding it with bungies also) exposing access to the problem center and driver side rear head bolts.
Do not rush the new bolts in, back in and out repeatedly, as they will be pretty snug going in. Use a little LocTite, but not too much to allow air and Loctite to escape up the threads as they are screwed in.
This procedure is only about 2.5 hours of wrench time.
2AZ FE (with later modifications) was used in:
2002–2009 Toyota Camry
2009–2011 Toyota Matrix S (USA)/XR (Canada)/XRS
2009–2010 Pontiac Vibe
2009–2013 Toyota Corolla XRS (2013 only in Mexico)
2002–2008 Toyota Camry Solara
2004–2008 Toyota RAV4
2001–2007 Toyota Highlander/Kluger/Harrier
Toyota Estima / Toyota Ipsum / Toyota Previa / Toyota Tarago
Toyota Alphard
Toyota Blade
Toyota Avensis
2005–2010 Scion tC
2008–2012 Scion xB[1]
2007-2013 Toyota MarkX Zio
1AZ-FE (2.0 EFI VVT) - w multipoint injection. Used for: Avensis 250..270, Avensis Verso/Picnic 20, Camry 30..40..50, RAV4 20..30, Wish 10.
1AZ-FSE (2.0 D-4 VVT) - w direct injection. Used for: Allion/Premio 240, Avensis 220..250, Caldina 240, Gaia, Isis, Nadia, Noah/Voxy 60, Opa, RAV4 20, Vista 50, Wish 10.
combined shipping is at 2.39 each additional bolt
Please check my history for your assurance.
Isin: | IDUQT935OV9U |
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(Oversize length and diameter)
180mm overall length
(171mm length from tip to bolt head flange with the washer cut off.)
.428" diameter at the threads
(Not factory recommended) 1AZFE / 2AZFE 4cyl Camry/Scion/Highlander Head Repair
2001-2007 Toyota Highlander
2002-2009 Toyota Camry
2004-2007 Toyota RAV4
2009-2010 Toyota Corolla XRS
2009-2011 Toyota Matrix S
2005-2010 Scion tC
2008-2015 Scion xB
I can't guarantee your results, as your block, gasket and head may be too badly affected.
(The recommended fix is new thread TimeSerts installed, a new gasket and shave (machine) the head flat)
But
if you are facing an unmanageable repair or replacement cost to a beginning head gasket leak, with seepage out the back of your engine, steaming off your exhaust into the engine compartment, mystery coolant loss, sloshing or gurgling sounds in your heater core, this may be worth a try. You can use a screwdriver to pry and wiggle the tops of your rear head bolts to see if they are loose. (center ones usually). If you are experiencing combustion smell or combustion pressure inside the radiator, you may need more extensive head or head gasket repairs. (The factory head gasket is pretty tough and does not necessarily get ruined in every case of these stripped bolt threads.)
If you check your head bolt hole depths carefully with a long wire, (compare it to your factory bolt) you might find you have about 1/2" of good threads down below your stripped out area. This longer (and fatter) bolt makes use of those good threads. So far in my experiences I find that these bolts are wider at the threads by 2 to 8 thousands of an inch than the factory 2AZ FE head bolts, (and also wider than most aftermarket 11mm designated bolts) therefore more surface contact, which grips much better for this application, allowing less slip under heat expansion/contraction.
(It is my opinion that at least some of the Toyota factory bolts were made too narrow.)
These replacements are 10.9 high grade steel head bolts.
In my own repairs, I go only to 55 ft lbs, and use these bolts with no machine work at all, head in place, holes just cleaned thoroughly with acetone and a suction tube and chopstick swab. I leave the old damaged threads in place for pinch/anchor power. I remove the factory washer and cut the washer off this bolt to go as deep as possible, going at least 9mm deeper than factory. I release the catch on the timing chain tensioner to move the cam out of the way a bit just enough to access the head bolts. This is done leaving the timing cover in place - if you have a good light source a 24 inch steel rod and a 15" long probe made from a slightly bent steel rod or rebar with a small pointed end. You can study a YouTube video to see the ratchet latch on the chain tensioner. The tensioner spring loaded ratchet latch is positioned facing the timing cover with access down between the cam gears. (Press the ratchet latch ridge back toward the firewall). Another 24" steel rod with a pointed bent tip snags between a chain link and leverages against the chain and chain slide keeping it in place back against the tensioner so it keeps everything from losing timing position as the ratchet latch releases the chain tension. It is held in place with vice grips at the top connected to a long bungie cord to the front bumper. There is enough slack in the upper part of the chain then to gently angle the cam forward (holding it with bungies also) exposing access to the problem center and driver side rear head bolts.
Do not rush the new bolts in, back in and out repeatedly, as they will be pretty snug going in. Use a little LocTite, but not too much to allow air and Loctite to escape up the threads as they are screwed in.
This procedure is only about 2.5 hours of wrench time.
2AZ FE (with later modifications) was used in:
2002–2009 Toyota Camry
2009–2011 Toyota Matrix S (USA)/XR (Canada)/XRS
2009–2010 Pontiac Vibe
2009–2013 Toyota Corolla XRS (2013 only in Mexico)
2002–2008 Toyota Camry Solara
2004–2008 Toyota RAV4
2001–2007 Toyota Highlander/Kluger/Harrier
Toyota Estima / Toyota Ipsum / Toyota Previa / Toyota Tarago
Toyota Alphard
Toyota Blade
Toyota Avensis
2005–2010 Scion tC
2008–2012 Scion xB[1]
2007-2013 Toyota MarkX Zio
1AZ-FE (2.0 EFI VVT) - w multipoint injection. Used for: Avensis 250..270, Avensis Verso/Picnic 20, Camry 30..40..50, RAV4 20..30, Wish 10.
1AZ-FSE (2.0 D-4 VVT) - w direct injection. Used for: Allion/Premio 240, Avensis 220..250, Caldina 240, Gaia, Isis, Nadia, Noah/Voxy 60, Opa, RAV4 20, Vista 50, Wish 10.
combined shipping is at 2.39 each additional bolt
Please check my history for your assurance.
- Shape: Hex
- Model: Rav4
- Grip Range: 75FtLbs
- Head Style: Hex
- Custom Bundle: No
- Thread Size: 11X1.5mm
- Drive Style: Hex Head
- Material: Steel
- Screw Size: 170mm
- Rail Height: NA
- Mandrel Material: Steel
- Type: Bolt
- Number in Pack: 1
- System of Measurement: Metric
- Item Thickness: 11mm
- MPN: M11X180G9
- Finish: Silver color
- Item Length: 170mm
- Brand: Unbranded
- Item Diameter (Interior): NA
- Item Diameter: 11mm
- End Type: NA
- UPC: Does not apply
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